Saturday, December 6, 2008
We have quickly given up on Easter Island’s cuisine. It is bland, unimaginative, and grossly overpriced, the latter which is explained by the island’s remote location. (I did learn, however, that most locals tend their own gardens, which explains the terrible vegetable situation in the grocery store: I’m just relieved to know that no one is going to die of scurvy.) Most menus offer fish, chicken, and beef, and each dish is accompanied by the exact same sauce and sides. We typically like to hang out in local restaurants, but there aren’t any. Because of food costs, most islanders eat at home; therefore, nearly everything is a tourist-oriented restaurant. Bummer.
As someone who enjoys experiencing a place through its food, the whole situation is a travesty. I’d be happy to throw my pesos at a worthwhile meal, but rather than fighting the situation, we’ve decided to go the cheapest route possible. And we’ve managed to ferret out the one place in town where locals seem to congregate: the hot dog wagon. (For some inexplicable reason, Latin Americans love eating food out of mobile units.) I’m not what you’d call a hot dog person. In fact, I eat approximately one hot dog a year, usually at the annual Isotopes baseball game. I know they’re supposed to be gross, comprised of all sorts of iffy animal parts (my vegan friend, Nikki, is dying right now), but believe me when I say that the Chileans have elevated the hot dog to new heights with the invention of the completo. The completo is basically a dog piled high with all the crap you can imagine: chunks of fresh tomato, a generous smear of guacamole, squiggly lines of mayonnaise, ketchup, and mustard.
We stumbled on the hot dog wagon - if it has a name, I don’t know it - one night, when it was entirely too late to be eating and I was grumbling about the price to quality ratio of the local fare. A little corner, lined with three wagons like you might find in a carnival, glowed warmly in the twilight. A group of colorful plastic chairs and tables was scattered under a grove of shady trees, packed with obvious locals, and when I saw a banner declaring “Completos” on one wagon, I was sold. Not only are they the busiest place in town, but the proprietress is super friendly, and the handmade pineapple and guava juices are out of this world at an unbeatable price. Maybe that’s why I look so completely delighted in this photo (the proprietress insisted that the turtle pose with me)? We’ve been back twice, officially ending my once-a-year-hot-dog embargo.
Next we’re keen to visit the lady who sells grilled food at Anakena Beach. Given the remoteness of the island, we typically pack a lunch for a day out, but are growing tired of sandwiches. We hatched a plan to be at the beach everyday for lunch, so we stopped by today to see what her hours are. “All day, anytime, I sleep here,” she replied. After walking us through her delicious and reasonably priced menu, she gave us a tour of the parrilla, where skewers of chicken were hissing next to pescado wrapped in a foil jacket. Within minutes we were fast friends, she explaining her friend’s health problems to us and kissing me on the cheek.
The food situation is looking up.

